Asheville’s Breweries Face Tough Challenges After Storm Helene
Asheville, quaintly nicknamed Beer City USA, is currently navigating choppy waters, quite literally. After the wrath of Hurricane Helene made landfall in September, the city’s main ingredient for brewing – clean water – was swept away in a twist of fate. Known for its spectacularly pristine water, Asheville’s breweries are grappling with an upheaval that has left some calling their water supply “chocolate milk.”
Devastation and Recovery
More than a month after the storm, many parts of Asheville are still relying on non-potable water, which has forced local brewers to think outside the box just to stay afloat. With no clear timeline for when safe drinking water will be restored, there’s a cloud of concern hanging over the craft beer scene here. Not only are they facing soaring costs and potential workforce issues, but the fear of not being able to adapt to these circumstances looms large.
The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has warned that nearly half of small businesses shutter their doors permanently after a natural disaster, leaving brewery owners in a state of uncertainty. Many local businesses were still recovering from the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic and now face another gut-wrenching challenge. “This crisis is exponentially more challenging than COVID to our brewers,” says a local economic expert.
Brewery Owners on the Front Line
Vince Tursi, who runs DSSOLVR, has faced a barrage of challenges trying to brew without a stable source of clean water. He laments, “Trying to figure out how to navigate this is a brand new Tetris puzzle.” To adapt, Tursi is grappling with installing a small reverse osmosis filter that would allow him to produce clean water for brewing. But the process is painstakingly inefficient. It takes 5 gallons of non-potable water to yield just 1 gallon of clean water. “It’s so wasteful,” he explains, highlighting that on a good day, he can produce only 500 gallons of clean water instead of the usual 2,000.
An Industry at Risk
The brewery sector is not just a local favorite; it holds substantial weight in the city’s economy. In 2019 alone, Asheville’s breweries had an economic impact of a staggering $935 million, making it the second-largest manufacturing industry in the area. The storm has wreaked havoc on this vital sector. At Hi-Wire Brewing, for example, 90% of their beer was destroyed. Co-owner Bryna Frosaker navigates the struggle of keeping their taps flowing amid such turmoil. She maintains, “Water is readily available. It just costs a good amount of money.”
Costly Solutions
One of the options some breweries are eyeing includes renting or purchasing tanker trucks filled with potable water, which can range from 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Yet, the price tag varies widely, and larger breweries are looking at costs between $50,000 and $70,000 to buy and store these tanks on their properties. “That’s a huge burden on any industry to take on for such a short-term impact,” cautions a spokesperson from the local chamber of commerce.
Collaborative efforts are underway; the Asheville Brewers Alliance is working with local authorities to provide a limited supply of potable water to struggling breweries. However, the challenge remains that brewing with costly water is often unfeasible for many, and some breweries have resorted to contract brewing outside the city to maintain their operations.
Hope Amidst the Chaos
As the city has begun cleaning sediment from its North Fork Reservoir with hopes of producing clearer water, it’s still unclear when normal supplies will resume. Unfortunately, the lack of water has taken a heavy toll on profits, leading some companies like DSSOLVR to operate only four days a week and bringing in less than 20% of their typical revenue.
The vibe in Asheville has shifted as the tourist crowd thins. “It feels like a ghost town,” Tursi says, voicing a sentiment shared among local business owners. While the city navigates this recovery, the brewing industry shows resilience. Many remain open, and the spirit of camaraderie flourishes as breweries step in to help one another with water supplies.
The Path Forward
As Asheville gradually regains its footing, it’s crucial to think about the future. The conversation around retaining the young talent that dominates the brewery workforce is becoming more pressing. Experts worry about the potential exodus of young workers seeking more stable job conditions elsewhere as breweries struggle to reopen fully.
While the long-term impact of this disaster is yet to be understood, the indomitable spirit of Asheville’s brewers shines through. “With tragedy, there’s usually some kind of rising from the ashes,” a local leader optimistically remarks. It seems even amidst the storm, hope brew through the challenges facing Asheville’s beloved breweries.
